Asian Highway Adventure |
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Day 1
Monday June 25
From: Tokyo, Japan
To: Osaka
Distance: 540km
Route: AH1
- Here she comes: a transporter delivers
the car after its long trip by sea to Japan
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The salesman in the Tokyo camera shop
called himself Ted. That wasn’t his Japanese name, of course,
but he wore it on a name badge to make foreign customers like us
feel more at ease. Thankfully too, he spoke a good range of english.
- pic © Nigensha Publishing, Japan
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- Proud to be British: jokey bowlers and a final wave
as we set off from Tokyo
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We met him last night in Akihabara, which is known as the “electronic
district” of this vast city of more than 30 million people
and is, without doubt, one of the greatest retail concentrations
of computerised gadgetry, image recollection and digitalised gismo-nology
anywhere in the world.
All we needed was to buy some camera equipment capable of faithfully
recording this trans-continental journey of ours back to London.
But to be able to give his best advice, Ted wanted to know our
story.
“Drawing world attention to road safety,” he said,
repeating one of our main ambitions. “Well, here in Japan,
you should find that drivers behave themselves with care and caution.
It’s part of our national psyche.
“But as for your route … the Asian Highway, you say?”
I pulled out my bag with the map and its accompanying booklet from
the United Nations.
“M’mm, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen
a sign for it. Are you sure there is one?”
On Day One, our departure day from Tokyo, we found that Ted was
right on both counts. With traffic so thick in the world’s
biggest city, there was simply no other way than to drive slowly
with caution. And, even with Phil’s fluency in Japanese, following
the signs to reach our designated highway going south tested his
navigational abilities to the full. The UN’s map confirmed
we were on Asian Highway 1 (AH1), but otherwise: who would know?
Tonight as we reach Osaka, another big city, there is more confusion
as we roam round busy streets following signs in an unfamiliar language.
But we reach our hotel safely in the end.
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Day 2
Tuesday June 26
From: Osaka
To: Fukuoka
Distance: 625km
Route: AH1
Total driven so far: 1165km |
A good run down to the port of Fukuoka on a smooth,
Western-style expressway with frequent service stations and emergency
service support. The countryside is pleasantly wooded with glimpses
of the mist-shrouded Chugoku hills which are the backbone of this
southern part of Honshu island.
- Fill her up: first fuel stop of the trip
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Traffic volume is thinner now that we are clear of the big cities
and drivers stick responsibly to the (mostly) 80kph limit with good
lane discipline. There will be many far, far more difficult days
ahead. But for today, the driving was relaxing and straight-forward.
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Day 3
Wednesday June 27
From: Fukuoka, Japan
To: Busan, S.Korea (by ferry)
- First of many: customs officers search
the car at Busan after our arrival in Korea
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A fast and efficient ferry takes us across from
Japan to South Korea on the first “waterborne” section
of the Asian Highway. Four years ago, when I was last at the Korean
port of Busan, typhoon Maemi had blown in, flattening many of the
dock facilities and hurling boats up onto the quayside. But today
we have none of that drama – making the flat calm crossing
in just seven hours with a minimum of fuss.
Clearing customs is no great problem either although officials
in the car shed are sceptical of our schedule.
“How long will you be staying in Korea,” asked one.
“About 36 hours,” I replied.
“Oh, and where are you going?” he queried.
“London,” I said firmly and quite matter-of-fact.
“Goodness,” his eyebrow raised, “nobody’s
ever told me that before.”
“I know,” I said, “we’ll be the first to
do it.”
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Day 4
Thursday June 28
From: Busan
To: Seoul
Distance: 435km
Route: AH1
Total driven so far: 1600km
- Look familiar? Nose to tail on the AH1 in South Korea
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- Where next? Map check at our sponsors'
hotel in Seoul
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As so often, the picture tells the story ...
We were seriously starting to wonder if this new Asian Highway
road network would turn out to be that continent's best-kept secret.
After driving through two countries and the best part of 1000
miles we had not seen a single sign to announce that we were actually
travelling along what will undoubtedly become one of the world's
most important road systems since the Silk Routes of ancient times.
We had been along the designated expressway from Tokyo right through
Japan with there being, well, not a sign of it.
And now we were halfway across South Korea too.
Then, suddenly, there it was ... a sign across the motorway which
said: "This way to Turkey"!
The AH1, a principle road artery of the new Asian Highway system,
is signposted just south of Seoul, the South Korean capital. It
links Asia with Europe after passing through China to Bangladesh,
India, Pakistan and eventually to Istanbul, many thousands of miles
away.
We shall follow it as far as X'i’an, the ancient Chinese
capital, before branching west
across China along the AH5 ( aka the “central "corridor"
route) travelling through the 'Stans, across the mighty Caspian
Sea, and then on to Europe through Turkey.
The sign we saw today said everything ...we are on our way, the
right way, into history - the first car ever to cross the full extent
of the new Highway; a journey that no car has achieved before. Asia's
best-kept secret is out at last!
Meanwhile, the driving today is mostly slow going with a heavy
volume of traffic, especially in Seoul.
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Day 5
Friday June 29
From: Seoul
To: Incheon
Distance: 80km
Route: AH1
Total driven so far: 1680km
- Joy-riding: pedal power interlude at Korean roadway services
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After a short drive to Incheon we find problems
await us on the second waterborne leg of our trip - a lengthy ferry journey cross the East China Sea.
- Easy does it: ground-clearance problems
as we board the ferry to China
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First, we discover that bad weather has delayed our sailing on
the Motor Vessel Tian Ren by three hours.
Second, our overnight “cabin” turns out to be a dormitory
to be shared with dozens of Chinese on mattresses laid out in rows
on the floor (we pay to upgrade) And third, potentially far more
serious, we find the car’s low ground clearance means we can’t
get up the loading ramp. In the end, we make it (just) thanks to
a pile of drift wood and some cautious guidance from the loading
crew. But they warn that disembarkation in China may be even more
problematic and make us promise not to hold them responsible if
we can’t get the car off.
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Day 6
Saturday June 30
From: Incheon
To: Tanggu, China (by ferry)
- Welcome to craneland: first sight of the Dragon's feverish
new economy
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Our journey over to China onboard the Tian Ren is roughly 600 miles
and takes 24 hours.
In actual fact, we hadn’t intended to come by ferry at all,
but our road route to China along the AH1 through North Korea is
closed due to what the authorities describe as “political
reasons” (a polite term for the imposition of sanctions following
North Korea’s recent testing of a nuclear device.) Was it
ever thus?
Anyway, it gives us time on board to catch up with sleep and,
despite our fears, the car comes off the boat in fine fettle - although
only after the unloading crew had made special arrangements for
us, using a second ramp when everyone else had long departed.
On the dockside we are met by “James” and “Mr
Mar” (not their real names) who have been appointed our official
minders by the government, and who will accompany us every yard
of the way through China to ensure, presumably, that we don’t
see anything we shouldn’t. M’mm.
Tonight they take us to a local hotel at nearby Tianjin, leaving
our car behind to begin the frustrating process of clearing China’s
notoriously slow and laborious customs procedures.
“It could take days,” warns James ominously.
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Days 7 & 8
Sunday 1st/Monday 2nd July
Tanggu/Beijing
- Undercover assignment: the long wait for clearance at
Tanggu dockside
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Our car remains on the dockside at Tanggu, impounded
in the Customs yard looking mysterious but rather forlorn under
a dark blue cover.
China's economy may be expanding at break-neck speed, but the news
does not yet seem to have reached those who work in the local Customs
department.
They do not work on Sundays (well, not on shipments like ours apparently),
so that's one day gone. Then there's all the paperwork to be checked,
signed and counter-signed. And that's a days-worth too.
No international carnets here. China has its own rules for doing
things, so we'll just have to wait. That could be another three
days, we are told. Chinese number plates have to be arranged; we'll
need to be issued with Chinese driving licences; our "guide"
(aka compulsory companion) will have to present himself...
Remember, says an official, the first foreign car was not allowed
into Beijing until 20 years ago.
But that was then and this is now, I say. A lot has happened since.
What will happen next year when hundreds of thousands arrive for
the Olympics?
Ah, says the man in the polished peaked cap, a great number of
more staff are already being trained up. Cars will get through in
no time ...
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Days 9 & 10
Tuesday 3/Wednesday 4 July
Tanggu/Beijing
- Above and Below: traffic clogs Beijing's busy streets
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With our engine forcibly switched off, as you might
say, we find ourselves with an unexpected chance to explore the
city of Beijing, a truly amazing mixture of new-found wealth and
old-world charm.
- Smog is an ever-present hazard
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In the space of a lifetime, the place has been transformed into
a formidable business centre capable of competing with the best
in the world while, between the cracks, there is still a myriad
of small shops, restaurants and markets to be found, plus of course
the famous Forbidden City, Emperor's Palace and Great Hall, and
the ill-famed Tiananmen Square.
It is also, we learn later, a city where more than 1000 cars are
being newly-registered every day.
Meanwhile, we hear there are the first encouraging signs of movement
down on the dockside at Tanggu ...
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Day 11
Thursday July 5
From: Tanggu
To: Beijing
Distance: 200 kms
Road: National Highway
- Another inch gone: final map check before we leave Beijing
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Well into the sixth day, Tanggu customs finally
cleared the car to make its official entrance into China. Phil was
the hero as his patient persuasion and mastery of the language eventually
broke down the barriers. Unfortunately, there was not quite time
enough for the car to make her star entrance at a press conference
2 1/2 hours away in Beijing where Richard was "holding the
fort" in front of more than 50 media and broadcast representatives.
He referred to the car's absence as an adventure thriller in true
007 tradition, and all understood the difficulties since problems
with customs clearance are well known throughout China.
UNICEF's chief representative in China, Dr Yin Yin Nwe praised
our efforts to raise the issues of road safety and child care and
thanked all those involved with our journey for making it possible.
Some photographers stayed on to record the car's arrival, while
others will return in the morning for the final send-off. Facilities
for the event were provided by InterContinental Hotels, one of the
major sponsors of the Asian Drive.
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Day 12
Friday July 6
From: Beijing
To: Zhengzhou
Distance: 678km
Total driven to date: 2562km
Route: AH1
- Pollution is part of daily life in China
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- The media crowd gathers at Zhengzhou
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On the road again at last. We leave Beijing - rather appropriately
- across the Marco Polo bridge on the Jingliang expressway. These
are "hard miles" as we seek to catch up lost time, but
the roads are surprisingly good and we make excellent progress through,
it must be said, an essentially flat and uninteresting landscape
that is permanently enshrouded in a sweltering 38deg heavy haze
of smog.
Hazard ahead: the journey is dangerously enlivened by the antics
of undisciplined drivers who weave in and out of traffic on the
dual-carriageway (plus hard shoulder) more in the fashion of skiers
tackling a giant slalom. After (or perhaps because of) surviving
the experience, a large media scrum is waiting at our night's pit
stop in Zhengzhou, one of China's Top 10 largest cities
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Day 13
Saturday July 7
From: Zhengzhou
To: X'ian
Distance: 550km
Total distance driven so far: 3112km
Route: AH1
- Above and right: City sights in Xi'an, burial place of
the terracotta warriors and China's ancient former capital
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After leaving the AH1, we travel west to join the
AH5 at X'ian and the "central corridor" route that will
take us all the way to Istanbul and into Europe.
Today's road closely follows the aptly-named Yellow River through
sand-driven hillsides and fertile lands until we reach X'ian which
Marco Polo "discovered" on his famous journey, taking
silk, paper and other treasures back to Europe along what later
became known as the Silk Roads that were used for centuries by traders
and pilgrims. Today, some of the city walls of X'ian still remain,
together with its tree-lined streets and ancient markets - but like
so much of modern China, it is now in the grip of a building frenzy.
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Day 14
Sunday July 8
From: Xi'an
To: Ping Liang
Distance: 263 km
Total distance driven so far:3375km
Route: Detour (AH5)
- Foot Patrol: Richard showing the way to
go
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First real test of the car's durability. An enforced
detour - something we are told, rather mysteriously, to do
with not being allowed near a "sensitive" military installation
- takes us off-route to rural Ping Liang.
- Dusty deviation near Ping Liang
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The gruelling journey is only about 165 miles but it takes eight
hours in grid-lock in heat of 60degrees. After our progress so far
on express and highways this rough road has multiple problems. Pounded
by trucks shuttling in and out of sand and gravel extraction plants,
the surface is frequently broken with repair work, mounds and potholes.
The car has a ground clearance of approx 6ins and several times
Richard has to walk in advance
Heat is on: ambient temperature went over 60 in the cockpit
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like the flagmen of motoring 100 years ago, guiding Phil on a
path through ruts that are twice that deep. But the car survives
it all - without a murmur of dissent.
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Day 15
Monday July 9
From: Ping Liang
To: Lanzhou
Distance: 329km
Total distance driven so far: 3704km
Route: Detour (AH5)
- Fields of plenty: a spectacular 'layered cake' hillside
outside Lanzhou
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Arrived at Lanzhou with the car still in one piece
after an adventurous 600km detour. It was Phil's turn today to go
on "flagman patrol" to guide us through the ruts and potholes.
- Which way next? Rough road detours were a major problem
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Refreshingly, however, we were able to experience many of the sights
that expressway driving obscures, including farming communities
threshing out a living from fields in the Yellow River Valley, and
spectacular views of layered-cake hills in manicured cultivation
- scenes far removed from the "new" China, and just the
way it has been for many centuries.
Tonight, thankfully, we reached Lanzhou, another major and historic
city. Tomorrow (Wednesday) is a rest day, and then we continue on
our route, which retraces the steps of Marco Polo and the old Silk
Routes.
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Day 17
Wednesday July 11
Lanzhou
- Spied in China: the V8 Vantage caused great curiosity
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A rest from driving today allows us to visit some
of this city's formidable variety of restaurants, where we find
why the Chinese have long been famed for their careful regime of
waste-not-want-not. Here's a taste from a typical menu, but be warned,
this is not for the sqeamish:
Chef's specialities: Mixed fern root noodles with chicken gristle
Sauteed stomach (no further details given) with colourful peppers
Marinated duck's tongue
Jellyfish head with mixed vinegar
Stewed goose webs (feet) with mushrooms
Sauteed pork neck (or ear)
Fried chicken's physique (no further details given) with chili sauce
Stewed beef tongue with crispy potatoes
Side dishes: Apart from a wide variety of noodles, dumplings, rice
and pancakes, this little gem caught the eye:
A seasonal mixed salad of lily root and black wood fungus
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Day 18
Thursday July 12
From: Lanzhou
To: Zhangye
Distance: 512km
Total distance driven so far: 4,216km
Route:National highway/AH5
- Flash storms were an extra test
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Our drive continued across the high plains of central
China, where the weather changes in an instant from bright sun to
torrential rain.
After the crowded cities of the east we are now seeing the vastness
of the country, with few cars and only scattered villages along
the road. It is an historic place, where weather-worn ramparts of
the Great Wall still set their face against the hordes from Mongolia
and the sands of the Gobi.
- Dwarfed by the watch-tower at Zhangye
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Tonight we are stopping at Zhangye, where Marco Polo was said to
have rested for a year on his fabled journeys to and from Xi'an.
Judging by the interest in the car and the messages we are bringing,
this drive of ours will go down in legend here too.
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Day 19
Firday July 13
From: Zhangye
To: Anxi
Distance: 511km
Total distance driven so far: 4,728km
Route: National Highway 312/ AH5
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We have travelled across the high plains of central
China for 1,000km in the past two days, with a great deal more to
come.
Today we conditioned ourselves in the cockpit for temperatures
of 40degC across a landscape that was an everlasting wilderness
of wind-sculptured sand and semi-desert. Incongruously, it is boundaried
to the south by a horizon of snow-capped mountains in the Qilian
range. A couple of highlights: we found the fort at Jiayuguan which
pretty much marks the end of the Great Wall's snaking journey all
the way up from Beijing,
- Left: Highway breaks the Great Wall
Above: The ancient fort at Jiayuguan
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and tonight we "pit stopped" at Anxi near the famous
cave dwellings at Dunhuang which so excited archaeologists in the
early 20th century, when they discovered that traders from Rome
must have passed through this way 2,000 years ago.
Today's expressway - a superb piece of engineering through this
difficult terrain - is part of China's contribution to the Asian
Highway system of roads with its important links to Europe.
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Danger ahead on the roads of China |
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Signs are ignored... |
Tyres are bald... |
Riders without helmets... |
Ah, that's better! |
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Day 20
Saturday July 14
From: Anxi
To: Hami
Distance: 364km
Total distance driven so far: 5,092km
Route: National Highway 312/ AH5
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Another day of sizzling heat and a long stretch
of lower-quality road keeps us on constant alert. The shimmering
tarmac is an ever-present halucination of distance and judgement,
and the thought is never far from our minds that an error in avoiding
potholes could send us corkscrewing off the road.
Other than widely in Australia and partly in Arizona, I cannot
remember experiencing distance-driving conditions like this before.
The stretch is turning into another great test for the car.
After three long days in the rising temperatures of these high
plains, tomorrow we will tackle the route through Turpan -a desolate
place that has recorded some of the highest temperatures on record.
But tonight we reach the oasis town of Hami, where we can prepare
for the challenge to come.
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Day 21
Sunday July 15
From: Hami
To: Urumchi
Distance: 587km
Total distance driven so far: 5,679km
Route: National Highway 312/AH5
- Down into the lunar landscape
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Turpan is one those places you read about in geography
books and then promptly forget - unless you happen to go there.
We reach it today on our continuing journey across north-west China
and it is, by any standards, a phenomenon of nature. Suddenly, after
driving for days through empty plains of sandy nowhereness, we drop
right into it, descending mile after mile into a huge basin of a
place enclosed by rocky escarpments on all sides and with a floor
which has lowered itself, quite inconceivably, well below sea level.
Because of this geological freakery, the temperature rises to a
brutish 50degC by day and plunges to minus 20degC at night - a span
of extremes that is unsurpassed virtually anywhere else in the world.
To put it bluntly, it is not a place for the feint-hearted. But
then again, nature has a way of being kind as well as cruel. Despite
its dangers, the Turpan Basin was on the route of explorers, traders
and pilgrims who passed this way for centuries and lived to tell
the tale.
- Hot stuff: It goes over 50 at Turpan, tho' thankfully
cooler for us
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- A truck snakes down into the Basin
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And so it was with us, on a day in which nature thankfully decided
to throw some thin cloud across the sun and to send a cooling wind
from the distant Tianshan mountains that kept the temperature mercifully
down to around 40degC.
A group of local Urgur people told us the combination was a rare
event - just as it was for an Aston Martin V8 Vantage to make the
Turpan crossing. If indeed, it has ever happened at all. Until today.
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Day 22
Monday July 16
From: Urumchi
To: Jinghe
Distance: 424km
Total distance driven so far: 6,103km
Route: National Highway 312/AH5
- Face-saving: cyclists need to protect themselves from
air pollution
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Cooler weather and a return of trees, crops and
grazing land mark today's journey as we near the end of our China
run.
By the time we reach Kazakhstan tomorrow (Tuesday) we will have
driven across this huge and important country in little more than
nine days. At around 4,500km (or 2,800 miles) it has constituted
about a quarter of our entire trip from Tokyo to London.
We have driven from East to West along roads designated within
the new Asian Highway system, through the over-crowded, smoggy streets
of Beijing, to new cities like Zhengzou and old ones like Xi'an,
been diverted into the country backwaters of Ping Liang, crossed
the desert wastes of the central plains, and plunged into the cauldron
of the Turpan Basin.
It has been an incredible journey, not just for the benefit of
seeing these places, but also because it has been a fascinating
chance to witness this nation at the time of its rapid re-emergence
on the world's economic stage.
The power of China's new future is everywhere, from the frenetic
building of roads and infrastructure projects at every level to
towering office and apartment blocks in the new or revitalised cities.
Wherever we have been, people seem mesmerised and not a little overwhelmed
as their nation, their past and their futures are being transformed
by the State at breakneck speed.
Like us, those able to witness the huge problems of bureaucracy
and inefficiencies compared with the West can only wonder at what
power there is to come when the barriers are broken down. Be warned:
the Dragon is not only awake, it is getting increasingly hungry.
China car notes: apart from an occasional throat-clearance, no
doubt caused by fuel octanes of dubious quality, the Aston Martin
V8 Vantage has behaved impeccably despite frequently hot and arduous
conditions.
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Day 23
Tuesday July 17
From: Jinghe, China
To: Almaty, Kazakhstan
Distance: 602km
Total distance driven so far: 6,705km
Route: National Highway 312/AH5 (China)
Highways A353,A350/AH5 (Kazakhstan)
- In-tents concentration: a village of yurts is home for
Kazak people
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We left China as we began, with more frustration
in clearing the car through Customs, but first there was a pleasant
drive of 200km to the border at Horgos. This was quite different
from what had gone before, with the winding road leading down through
Alpine-like scenery of pine-clad hills and lakes and past the encampments
of the nomadic, horse-riding Kazak people with their conical yurts
(traditional, tented homes made of felt).
- Sign language: 'this way to Europe' said the message
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But then came the delay in our departure. We were bang on schedule,
yet despite three months of pre-notification, the help of local
agents and calls to the UK to provide futher information about the
car, we still had a six-hour wait for clearance.
Three different phases of checkouts and 21 forms and documents,
all needing to be signed by officials, did not help the process.
But we were lucky - as we drove past line after line of trucks and
other vehicles, we heard that some of them had been waiting for
three days in the backlog.
Sign of the day: while waiting for the car's release we spotted
a small blue-and-white sign on the road into Horgos. It said "Yaou
Road" with Chinese symbols alongside, which meant "the
road from Asia to Europe." It is the one and only sign for
the Asian Highway we had seen throughout our entire journey across
China.
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Day 24
Wednesday July 18
Rest Day: Almaty, Kazakhstan
Total distance driven so far: 6,705km
- Here we are in Kazakhstan
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Our rest day in Almaty followed a nightmare 400km
drive from Korgos, China, into Kazakhstan, with Phil needing to
adopt a technique we'll call "road surfing". The scenery
beside the A353 and A350 (designated routes on the AH5) was sumptuous
- mile upon mile of wild and unspoilt prairie with sun-dappled hills
where only the renowned Kazak horsemen live and roam free. But the
state of the road was a quite different story.
Unlit, unmarked and apparently unmaintained for years, whole sections
were rutted and pitted, and the passage of large trucks had deformed
long stretches into mounds and hollows. Driving it in the road-hugging
Aston Martin was like riding a switchback or surfing a wave, and
the danger of "grounding" the car was quickly evident.
- Hazard ahead: no markings and a rutted surface meant we
had to 'road surf'
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But Phil mastered the art of road surfing by the technique of
getting one set of wheels onto the upside of bumps and thus flipping
the car up sufficiently to avoid the ruts and hollows. At low speed
it may sound easy, but the V8 Vantage wasn't built for dawdling.
It meant we were literally tossed around in the cabin like a surfer
or a snowboarder as we lurched off the crest of the "waves"
- but the car avoided any serious damage below the waterline!
The technique is not to be recommended in any normal circumstances
and required the greatest concentration. But with his quick eye
and equally quick reactions, Phil was up to the task and brought
the car into Almaty after a marathon five-hour drive in which the
tyres and suspension took a hammering but the car remained unscathed.
It was one of the most sustained pieces of driving in hazardous
conditions that I can recall.
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Days 25/26
Thursday/Friday July 19/20
From: Almaty (Kazakhstan)
To: Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
Distance: 254km
Total distance driven so far: 6,959
Route: M33 (AH5)
- Almaty: now a major commercial centre
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Our time in Almaty found a vibrant and bustling
city, as the former capital of Kazakhstan emerges from under the
old Soviet regime into one of Eurasia's major commercial centres.
More than 20 per cent of the nation's 15 million people live here,
but only about half are Kazaks. The rest are predominantly Russians,
Turks and Urgyrs. It all gives the place an international flavour
with a surprising acceptance of western fashions and lifestyles.
With its endless acres of wheatfields, self-sufficiency in oil,
and a territory about the size of Europe, I imagine it to have been
one of the assets the USSR was most loathe to lose following the
Communist melt-down of the 1990s.
- Border chaos: waiting to cross into Kyrgyzstan
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Today, as we travelled the short distance to Kyrgyzstan, the highway
going west out of the city was better than it was from the Chinese
border at Horgos, but we have heard that more of our "road
surfing" tactics might be necessary when we travel back into
Kazakhstan for the second time tomorrow.
Tonight, meanwhile, we "pit stopped" at Bishkek, first
city of the smallest of the now-independent Soviet states, and enjoyed
the tree-lined streets and spectacular mountain views of what was
once a favourite "watering hole" for the camel trains
of traders along the old Silk Routes.
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Day 27
Saturday 21 July
From: Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
To: Tashkent (Uzbekistan)
Distance: 632km
Total istance driven so far: 7,591km
Route: M30 (AH5) through Kazakhstan
- More map planning at Tashkent
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After our briefest of stopovers in Bishkek, this
was one of the longest day's driving of the trip so far - and we
were back on the notorious roads of Kazakhstan. The scenery is beautiful
... a land of plenty with softly rolling hills, lazy rivers, fields
of handsome fruit and vast plains of wheat - a thinly populated
rural idyll so different to the city-life of Almaty. But the state
of the road required our constant vigil.
The local word was that nothing much had been done to maintain
the roads since the Russians cut their umbilical cord to Kazakstan,
and it showed. Today's run was more than 375 miles on one of the
country's major roads, yet all but a short section of it was just
two lanes, and we found the roadside littered with broken-down trucks
and the carriageway strewn with fractured tyres and other debris.
It wasn't surprising, since here once morewere all the bumps and
hollows of a road surface heated by the strong sun and deformed
by the pounding of big trucks and other heavy vehicles.
As before, the V8 Vantage, with its road-hugging contours, took
a thorough pasting of jars and judders, but we arrived at our destination
safely. That destination was the Kazak border with Uzbekistan -
and here again, we found ourselves needing to take some less orthodox
action.
Naturally,we couldn't possibly disclose the full details, but when
night is falling fast, the gate is about to shut, and your car is
the last in a long line, then let's just say that the current strength
of the pound is something that can come in rather handy when trying
to energise border officials at the end of a long and tiring day.
And so tonight we rested in Tashkent, the Uzbeck capital, with
another two countries - Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhtan - left behind in
our dusty slipstream.
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Look out, there's a heavy load about |
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Hay going to market... |
No more room on top... |
Pick of the cotton crop |
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Day 28
Sunday 22 July
Tashkent, Uzbekistan
- Help! Where can we get some decent fuel
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Our stopover turned into a day of unexpected planning,
after we discovered to our horror that no one in Uzbekistan could
apparently sell us any fuel suitable for our Aston Martin.
Well, not quite no one, as it turned out.
Tapping into local knowledge, we found that someone knew someone
who had a cousin who owned a garage here in Tashkent which was very
probably the only place in the whole of Uzbekistan that could sell
us the 98 octane petrol we needed.
It may have sounded far-fetched, but the more we checked it out
the more it seemed to be true.
Oh dear! Uzbekistan is about the size of California. We were at
the far end of it and it stretched before us for another 885 miles.
Even with a following wind we simply could not drive that far on
a single tank. And there was scarcely a breeze.
Doesn't your cousin have any brothers who could help us out further
into our journey, we asked our source. No, he said, the octane anywhere
else would all be of lower quality and, even worse, would be leaded
- still a legacy from the Soviet days.
Oh dear oh dear!
We sent an urgent message back to the Aston Martin base in the
UK.
Having been given the appropriate advice, we decided to fill the
tank up to the very brim with the cousin's unleaded 98 octane petrol,
fill up the largest spare can we could find, and squeeze it into
our crowded cabin.
We also decided that, as soon as we got a chance, we would cross
into any neighbouring country, providing it wasn't Afghanistan.
That country will be Turkmenistan. We will try to forget any political
problems that country may be facing, and concentrate on the fact
that they have ample supplies of the quality of fuel we need.
We calculate that our route to the Turkmenistan border is 750km
(470 miles), and that our full tank plus reserves and a following
wind will carry us 782km (490 miles). There was, we realised, little
room for error, and it was far too close for comfort. But comfort
isn't why we are tackling this historic journey.
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Day 29
Monday 23 July
From: Tashkent, Ukbekistan
To: Samarkand
Distance: 337 km
Total Distance Driven so far: 7,928 km
Route: M39 (AH5)
- Above and below: Our arrival cause quite
a stir among the ancient mosques and palaces of Samarkand
and Bukhara
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Knowing that we could not buy more fuel whilst in
Uzbekistan added a sense of drama to today's drive to Samakand.
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- Above and below: ancient and modern in the cenral square
at Samarkand
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Another day of sweltering 40+degC on the Central Asian plain had
a dangerously soporific effect as we eased along a highway mostly
thin with traffic except for ancient Russian trucks, Daewoo cars
from the national factory and animals of various descriptions which
presented themselves in the fast lane from time to time.
Samarkand, however, was worth the visit - a romantic place with
picturesque forts, mosques and ornamental gateways dating from pre-Christianity,
and a centre of trading on the Silk Roads since ancient times.
Back in reality, the needle of our fuel gauge showed we still
had a little over half a tank of fuel remaining. Perhaps it will
be just enough.
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Day 30
Tuesday 24 July
From: Samarkand
To: Bukhara
Distance: 276km
Total distance driven so far 8,204km
Route: M39 (AH5)
- Mounded fortress guards Bukhara
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Next stop Bukhara, another of the great trading
stations between Europe, Asia and China along the old Silk Roads.
There was an even more rural feel to the driving today, with plenty
of hay and donkey carts to avoid and trucks taking cotton -Uzbekistan's
main wealth producer - to market. Life for the motorist, we learned,
had changed little since the lifting of the Russian yoke. Fuel
- Inside story: parking in a private courtyard keeps the
car safely out of sight
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stations are mostly of the single-pump variety with octane grades
in the low 80s, and requests for 'green' petrol are firmly rejected.
Car insurance is a rarity and seat-belt rules are only now being
advocated.
Interestingly, the Aston Martin and our road-safety campaigning
drew more crowds of well-wishers than usual, after our apparent
appearance last night on national television. On more pressing matters,
the amber low-fuel warning light flickered on as we approached the
town. Tonight, we will put in our last reserves and tomorrow (Wednesday)
we must travel another 140km to the Turkmenistan border with even
more apprehension than usual.
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Day 31
Wednesday 25 July
From: Bukhara (Uzbekistan)
To: Mary (Turkmenistan)
Distance: 394 km
Total distance driven so far: 8598km
Route: M37 (AH5)
- Border bother: six hours in the heat
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With one eye permanently on the fuel gauge we continue
to make for the shortest exit out of Uzbekistan - a place where they seem to think a catolytic converter is a new kind
of missionary.
- Animal cross roads: if it isn't a camel
(above)
it's a herd of cattle (below)
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Employing some of the best petrol-rationing tactics since World
War II, we make it to the border at Farab with enough in the bottom
of the tank to get us into Turkmenistan, a secretive land fabled
for its cheap and plentiful fuel, fairytale castles of Italian marble
and millions living an Orwellian life of listless impoverishment.
First the bad news ... another six-hour marathon in a tin shed
of a customs house in 45deg heat as we attempt to get into this
never-never land where we notice, for the first time on this oddyssey
of ours, that the border guards now have rifles across their shoulders.
Then an obstacle race as we try to cross the river Oxus on a pontoon
bridge where the sections rise and fall with the water. Imagine
the picture with a car that has a six-inch ground clearance needing
to make a sudden leap onto a section that has just stepped up by
twice that much. The only way to achieve this feat is to anticipate
the next fall of the oscillating bridge and then sprint-start to
complete the jump-over to the next section before it rises again.
We make it ...just; and we also make it just, to the first garage
in Turkmenistan with 95 octane fuel. Our dashboard message gives
us the news that we had enough fuel for only another 14.5 more miles.
Those calculations we had made in Tashkent 500 miles ago had been
right, but it had been a very, very close call.
Incidentally, the new fuel - a full tank of more than 70 litres
- cost us less than $2.
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Day 32
Thursday 26 July
From: Mary
To: Ashgabat
Distance: 451km
Total distance driven so far: 9049km
Route M37 (AH5)
- Watch out, there’s a camel about
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First to Merv, a name which sounds like
- Ancient Merv: well worth a visit
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- Roads are rough outside the capital
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something out of an American movie from the 1960s. It was in fact,
one of the most important centres of power in these parts for successively,
the Persian, Greek, Arab and Turkish empires. Today, it is a collection
of sandstone fortress walls and re-constructed mosques but well
worth a visit. What isn't so worthy, is the journey from Merv to
the capital Ashgabat where the road twists on for endless, featureless
miles across the arid Asian plateau and the temperature settles
in the stifling mid 40s. Tonight we arrive at Ashgabat, the Turkmenistan
capital which the President Saparmurat Niyazov, until his recent
death, had turned into a personal fantasy-land of fountains, parks
and sculptures, designed against a serrated skyline of landmark
buildings clad in European white marble and looking like something
straight off the top of a box of Lego.
Unfortunately, we have found ourselves in a police state that
directs all foreigners to abide by an 11.30pm curfew, and doubles
any fines against motorists which remain unpaid after 12 hours.
They also demand a start-to-finish routemap from visitors which
must be adhered to without fail, so it is not the kind of place
which many would want to visit for long.
Tomorrow, a rest day, we can explore some more before preparing
for another extended run up to Turkmenbashi, and then a ferry across
the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan.
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Day 33
Friday 27 July
Rest day in Ashgabad (Turkmenistan)
- The 'fairy-tale' city of Ashgabad
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- 'Trophy' buildings clad in white marble
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A stopover chance to venture into the extraordinary
capital of this closed and little-known nation, which is surely
like none other. Saparmurat Niyazov - until his recent death from
heart failure - was evidently an unfettered dictator able to exercise
the full range of his fantasies on this place while levelling a
regime of total command and control on his subjects.
- Niyazov's statue: immortalised in gold
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- Stepping up to the president's palace
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- Posters of the new president are everywhere
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Ashgabad city is a complete one-off in a nation of four million,
who live mostly in rural penury. It commands a fairy-tale setting
below the mountains that separate Turkmenistan from Iran, and it
glitters like an illusion of the false oasis that it is.
In the centre sits Niyazov's palace - a golden-domed edifice surrounded
by a clutch of buildings that housed his acolytes and the apparatus
of his power, all of them faced with expensive white marble imported
from Europe and set among parks, shaded boulevards, intricate fountains
and striking monuments, mostly of himself.
Elsewhere in this city of delusion there is a huge "Olympic
stadium" which will never stage the Olympics, a "world
trade centre" which will never be a centre for world trade,
and row upon row of high-rise "trophy" buildings and offices
clad in the same white marble that look like cut-outs from a Hollywood
film set but are, in fact, either empty or occupied by foreign companies
and their guests.
As part of his grand strategy, Niyazov determined that citizens
and visitors alike could be stopped without reason - as we were
many times - by the police and military on every street corner and
questioned about their identity and purpose. Furthermore, there
is evidence that he authorised bugging of hotel rooms and censorship
of internet messages.
He also decreed that all employees of the State (i.e., almost
everyone with a job) should be provided with virtually free petrol
and free gas, electricity and other household services in exchange
for receiving virtually no wages - a policy which, despite all "official"
survey results, has clearly failed to meet with universal satisfaction.
His successor, the effusively-named Gurbanguly Berdimuhammedow,
has promised to change a few things since taking up the reigns of
power in February.
But despite that promise, visitors like us are treated to a rash
of larger-than-life-size pictures of the new president being erected
on sites throughout the city as we make our rapid tour.
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Day 34
Saturday 28 July
From: Ashgabad, Turkmenistan
To: Turkmenbashi
Distance: 578km
Total distance driven so far: 9,627km
Route: M37 (AH5)
- Humps in the road: a modern camel train
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An arduous eight-hour drive along the corridor between
the sand dunes of the Garagum desert and the spectacular Kopet Dag
mountains took us to the port of Turkmenbashi, where we expected
to take a ferry across the Caspian Sea to Azerbaijan.
The journey was punctuated only by the antics of wandering camels
in the habit of sitting on the warm asphalt towards the end of each
day, causing a driving hazard in the failing light that Aston Martin
drivers would not usually be conditioned to encounter on the roads
of England (or most other places for that matter).
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Night 34 & Day 35
Saturday & Sunday 28 & 29 July
The Caspian Sea ferry
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Of all the dispatches sent send during this marathon
journey of ours along the new Asian Highway, there will be few -
if any - more unusual than this. The plain fact is that what happened
in a car park on a sultry night in a corner of a police state in
central Asia will not have been within the experience of many who
are associated with one of the world's great cars, and neither will
many of them have attempted to sleep in one with their legs dangling
through an open window in preference to settling down for the night
in a mosquito-ridden ornamental flower bed. In the beginning, we
had arrived at the ferry terminal in Turkmenbashi towards the late
afternoon, looking to secure a place on the next sailing to Baku
in Azerbaijan. It is, as we could see from the UN's official map
of the new Asian Highway, the designated link of the AH5 route across
the mighty Caspian Sea.
- Choice accommodation: it was either the car or an ornamental
flowerbed
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But oh dear, we found that the terminal - which even in its finest
moments would languish among the fourth division of its peers and
piers - was in even greater disarray following a fire and explosion
earlier in the day at the local electricity plant that had blanked
out all computer screens, halted all sailings, and marooned inbound
passengers in the waiting room and outbound travellers in the car
park.
Probably, if we were on any ordinary journey to Baku, there would
have been nothing else for it but to sit and wait. But we were men
on a mission.
The first thing we did was to establish that there were two ferries
in the dock and that one was already fully loaded. The next was
to discover that there was room on the second for perhaps 20 more
passengers with or without cars, and the third was to find that
we were, individually, 157th and 158th on the waiting list, and
159th if you counted the car. In view of the power failure it was
also unlikely, we were told, that more boats would be turning up
anytime soon.
We began to negotiate in the time-honoured fashion in this part
of the world.
As an hour or two went by we identified those who were able to
speed the process, gained access to their increasingly darkening
offices, explained our problem, suggested a way forward with a gentle
rubbing of thumb and forefinger, and finally settled on the required
financial arrangements.
We were now 11th, 12th and 13th on the list. But unfortunately,
not yet with a boat to be listed on.
Back in the car park, an uninspiring place of dust and grime, initial
celebration at our elevation in the queue gradually subsided into
resignation. Darkness, accentuated by the lack of power in the town
and terminal, descended. The cafe shut. A warm breeze arrived with
evening time, thankfully taking the smell of the toilets downwind.
A pack of local dogs began their nightly prowl.
Other travellers, some of them British, trickled into the place,
and we found ourselves huddled with them on two raised, sandy islands.
Once, probably when this place opened, they would have been ornamental
flowerbeds, but now, devoid of vegetation, they suited another purpose
and become our territory, our redoubts in the inky blackness.
- With one a'chord: Phil serenades the stranded passengers
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More time passed. Occasionally, and especially when cars arrived
with people who looked the slightest bit official, there was a stir
as we pressed for news of a possible departure. But none came. In
fact, there were no announcements of public information at all.
The time dragged by to midnight. On our island encampment there
was a difficult decision to be made: we were tempted to depart for
a local hotel and get a good night's sleep, but what if the ferry
should leave in the night? Our place in the queue - and all our
financial "investments" - would be lost. And when might
the next ferry turn up anyway? It could be days.
On the other hand, if we stayed, where could we sleep - in a car
already stuffed with the detritus of five weeks travelling, or among
the sandy debris of a once-ornamental flowerbed?
Nothing we could find in the Aston Martin handbook gave us a clue,
but the choice was made - we stuck at our posts to see it through.
- ‘Negotiating’ takes place in the time-honoured
fashion
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So what can I tell you about how it is to sleep in the seat of
one of the world's best-known cars on a pitch-black night in an
arid car park in the middle of Asia? Despite all the electronic
leverings of angles and adjustments, my conclusion was that it was
after all a seat designed for driving and not for sleeping.
The favoured position was to hang my feet out of the window and
bury my head and back into the seat in recline as far as it would
go. Unsuprisingly, my body language was soon as black as my surroundings.
Surveying the island dormitory in the early hours on a preamble
to get the blood flowing again into my aching limbs, I found Phil
laid out on the car's dust cover which he had impregnated on the
inside with insect repellant and wrapped around him like the Turin
shroud. A borrowed guitar, presumably to deal with any bugs larger
than the restless mosquitos, lay close at hand.
Other of our new-found friends were strewn about. One, the son
of a retired oil executive from Westminster, had taken the position
of those knights of old who rest with hands neatly clasped on the
top of tombstones. Another, a Russian with good English, appeared
to have achieved the trick of sleeping with one eye still open like
a faithful dog on guard duty, while a third, a pleasant social worker
from Leeds, spent most of the night administering water and jolly
words of comfort to those most in need.
It was a night to remember, and it paid dividends. At about 7am,
when we would surely have still been in our hotel beds if we had
taken that course, word came round that we could board the ferry
and our journey
- At last: boarding the ferry to Baku
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to the distant shore of Azerbaijan could continue.
It took nearly 17 hours, including another sleepless episode aboard
a rust-bucket of a motor vessel of unknown vintage sailing under
the highly improbable name of the "Akademik Topchubashov".
But that is another story and will have to wait for later.
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Day 36
Monday 30 July
Baku, Azerbaijan
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We arrived at the Azerbaijan capital's antiquated
port after a moonlit journey across the Caspian Sea on an equally
antiquated boat, with a villainous crew who demanded kickbacks for
everything from shower soap to cabin size.
Another sleepless night following the flowerbed incident in Turkmenistan
left us badly drained - and to cap it all, the Customs shed was
closed.
While the Aston Martin remained impounded, it brought echoes of
our entrance into China, but events perked up markedly later, as
a police escort whisked us through the frenetic city of Baku to
a press conference, where national TV and assorted media again mustered
to record our arrival and to spread our messages on road safety.
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Day 37
Tuesday 31 July
From: Baku, Azerbaijan
To: Tbilisi, Georgia
Distance: 608 km
Total distance driven so far: 10,235km
Route: M1 (AH5) |
Another long and tiring day saw us drive right across
Azerbaijan, giving us a glimpse of a country which ranges from the
expanding sprawl of oil-rich Baku to a countryside of semi-desert
and rural deprivation. In parallel, the roads vary enormously from
good to downright terrible.
Tonight, another border crossing - this time into Georgia - and
our first real taste that the West, rather than the East, was beckoning,
with helpful officials, less mind-numbing bureaucracy, and no "financial
persuasion" required.
A little further and we arrived at Tbilisi, a twinkling, captivating
Prague-like city now wanting to lean its future towards Europe after
its "Rose Revolution" which brought independence from
the Soviets
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Day 38
Wednesday 1 August
Rest day :Tbilisi |
A 'pit stop' day allows us to explore more of this
fascinating city. After centuries of turmoil that have ranged from
earthquakes to gunfire and rioting in its narrow streets, the city
is at last beginning a renaissance signposted by a new and vibrant
pavement cafe society of culture, art and fashion.
After its recent pounding across the rough roads of central Asia
we also take the chance to check the car for any tyre or other fundamental
damage. Rremarkably, the shock absorbers seem to have stood up to
the test outstandingly well - as have the Bridgestone tyres which
only required replacements to the rear set as a sensible precaution.
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Day 39
Thursday 2 August
From: Tblisi
To: Batumi
Distance: 451km
Total distance driven so far: 10686km
Route: M1/M2 [AH5]
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At last! Good, flat roads take us through the lush,
green fertile valleys of the wooded Caucuses. And tonight another
contrast to all that has gone before ... we reach the Black Sea
resort of Batumi, a favourite holiday destination for Georgian families
and those from the Russian States with all the paraphernalia of
beach huts, funfairs and silly hats to remind us that fun and laughter
have returned to this part of the world. What a change it all is
to my journey through here just four years ago when I needed to
hire the local police chief to sit in the back of our car to warn-off
his own men intent on relieving us of cash because they hadn't been
paid
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Day 40
Friday 3 August
From: Batumi (Georgia)
To: Samsun (Turkey)
Distance: 533km
Total distance driven so far: 11219
Route: D.010 [AH5]
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One more short hop and we cross the border into
Turkey - the very last country in our attempt to become the first
car to cross the full extent of the new Asian Highway. Comfortingly,
the road is now a mostly dual-carriageway ride along the coast and
we are able to enjoy the scenery instead of worrying about how to
keep the car on the road for the first time in many weeks
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Day 41
Saturday 4 August
From: Samsun, Turkey
To: Arac
Distance: 405km
Driven so far: 11,624km
Route: 0.10 and detours (AH5)
- Colourful coast: Turkey’s aquamarine Black Sea
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With a few hours in hand we decided to detour from
the main highway on this, the penultimate day of our journey across
the new Asian Highway, and found some of the most spell-binding
scenery of the whole trip.
- A hidden world of red-tiled houses
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Driving inland towards Kastamonu from the aquamarine Black Sea,
we found an enchanting hidden world tucked behind the mountains
of Turkey's coastal range with golden meadows and pine-clad hills
gathered around villages of red-tiled, whitewashed houses where
life has changed little over the centuries.
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Day 42
Sunday 5 August
From: Arac, Turkey
To: Istanbul
Distance: 465km
Driven so far: 12,089km
Route: 04 M-way (AH05)
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At precisely 4.32pm local time, the duty policeman
in his box on the Asian side of the ancient suspension bridge that
crosses the Bosphorus at Istanbul logged in one of the strangest
requests to have ever come his way.
Out of the gloom on an overcast afternoon, a mud-spattered Aston
Martin V8 Vantage bedecked with sponsors' slogans and appeals for
road safety, drew up outside his guard post and spilled out two
weary-looking Brits, who declared that they had driven all the way
from Japan and would he please take their photograph?
- End of the highway: celebrating at the
Bosphorus Bridge where Asia meets Europe and East meets
West
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The two were Phil and me. The policeman took the picture and finally,
after 42 days of one of the more significant journeys of modern-day
motoring, we were able to say that we had completed the first official
crossing of the new Asian Highway road system, with all its important
implications for the future of global travel and trade.
The statistics are these:
Journey: From Tokyo, Japan, to Istanbul,Turkey
Time taken*: Six weeks exactly
Distance driven**: 12,089km
Route: AH1 and AH5 - the Asian Highway "central corridor"
route
Nations crossed (10): Japan, South Korea, China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan,
Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Turkey.
Note *: after deducting delays for Customs clearance and rest
days, actual driving time taken was approx four weeks.
Note **: after adding ferry journeys, the actual total distance
travelled was approx 13,000km.
But there has been so much more to the story than that.
By reaching the Bosphorus bridge, which officially marks the end
of Asia and the beginning of Europe, we had shown that after 50
years in the planning, the 32 nations of Asia now have an inter-connected
road network that is capable of speeding travellers and trade to
and from the markets of Europe.
Just like the Silk Roads of centuries ago, the new road system
- with all its opportunities and implications - will grow in world
significance over the years to come. And just like Marco Polo and
those fabled travellers of many years ago who established the routes
between East and West, there will surely be a great many others
who followa along our pioneering path.
Our personal thanks must go to a large number of people who helped
to make the trip succeed.
My own gratitude starts with Barry Cable, Director of Transportation
of the UN's Asian Commission, and to his team, for hatching the
idea with me of the first full Highway journey at the "Coming
into Force" ceremony of the multi-national Treaty in Bangkok
in the summer of 2005.
There are also those connected with the FIA's Make Roads Safe
and the GRSC's Road Safety is No Accident campaigns,
whose objectives in trying to reduce the horrendous toll of traffic
deaths in Asia - and particularly those of children - we have been
proud to support. Extensive and heartfelt thanks too must go to
our partners Aston Martin, for loaning us a car whose exceptional
durability enabled us to complete the journey and whose help and
support reached well beyond any expectations; to InterContinental,
the international hotel chain, for providing us with places to rest
our weary heads; to Bridgestone, for helping to keep our journey
safe and a great deal more besides; and to a long list of many other
companies and organisations for their most wonderful encouragement
and support.
Finally, but without whom this project would simply not have succeeded,
I must thank Phil my co-driver, companion and amazingly talented
all-round travelling person, plus Geoff, Tony, Paquita and Becky,
who have been on-call throughout as the home-base team, providing
all the back-up help that allowed us to concentrate on the road.
As we rested in Turkey's fascinating capital of Istanbul, we were
reminded that this great city was once one of the most important
strategic centres of trade in the world.
Known then as Constantinople, it was the principal city of the
Roman's eastern (or Byzantine) empire, and it was across a bridge
just like the one where we startled our policeman friend today that
travellers, traders and pilgrims arrived or set out on their desperately
arduous journeys to and from Asia.
As history repeats itself, there seems little doubt that this city's
reputation will soon once again blossom as the great Gateway between
the civilizations of East and West, due to the arrival of the new
Asian Highway network
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Help to
save young lives like these
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Day 43
Monday 6 August
Istanbul, Turkey
- Blossoming again: Istanbul’s importance
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A major media presentation today
marked our successful completion of the Asian Highway journey
- but we are not finished yet. Tomorrow the European leg begins
with London as the final destination.
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Day 44
Tuesday 7 August
From: Istanbul, Turkey
To: Sofia, Bulgaria
Distance: 599km
Total distance Driven so far: 12,688km
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At last - some smooth roads and motorway driving
allowed our so-versatile Aston Martin V8 Vantage to purr along,
in such contrast to so much of what had gone before.
In truth, the Bulgarian roads are not quite as flat in places
as many might suppose, but the more disciplined European driving
standards and more strictly enforced speed limits were quickly
evident.
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Day 45
Wednesday 8 August
From Sofia, Bulgaria
To: Zagreb, Croatia
Distance: 761km
Total distance driven so far 13,449km
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Bulgaria, Serbia and Croatia all fly past
today as our whistle-stop run back to London powers into top
gear.
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Day 46
Thursday 9 August
From: Zagreb
To: (nr.) Stuttgart
Distance: 822km
Total distance Driven so far: 14,271km
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After leaving Croatia in the morning we added
two more nations - Austria and Germany - to our visiting list.
This was motoring on another level ... fast roads, service
stations at regular intervals, and fast-pass "borderless"
crossings now that we are within inner Europe.
The odometer clicked along at such a pace that we clocked
up more than 500 miles (822km) on the day - a record during
our journey.
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Day 47
Friday 10 August
From: Stuttgart
To: Paris
Distance: 644 km
Total Miles driven so far: 14,915km |
This was one of the proudest moments of our
entire trip as we entered the French capital.
- Classic Paris: (top) the Place de la Concorde
and (below) the spectacular Arc de Triumph
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Ironically, and as an entire surprise to us, a cavalcade
of cars was entering the Place Vendome at virtually
the same moment, after completing a journey from Peking (now
Beijing) to Paris in commemoration of the first time that
famous feat was achieved 100 years ago.
Ever since that journey, Paris has revelled in its place
in motoring history - and now it has our own, extended odyssey
to add to its illustrious list.
In their modern celebration of the 1907 rally, the cars and
drivers we met today in the Place Vendome had taken
two months to journey from Beijing. Thanks to the speed and
durability of the Aston Martin V8 Vantage, we took a little
more than half that time.
Through our pioneering trip, this was surely an indication
of the future as the Asian Highway increases the ease and
speed of travel between the East and West still further.
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Day 48
Saturday 11 August |
A rest day in Paris, although we also had
a trip to Arlon in Belgium to complete an assignment for one
of our sponsors.
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Day 49
Sunday 12 August
From: Paris
To: London
Distance: 433km
Total driven distance from Tokyo: 15,348km
Total all-travel distance: approx 16,500km incl ferries
- Ship ahoy! The ferry back to Blighty
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And so, at last, we arrive in London - our
final destination.
To begin the day there was another silky run up to Calais
across French roads that we both agreed were among the best
of the whole journey, but first there is the strangest piece
of serendipity.
It happened on the autoroute an hour or two going north out
of Paris when we spotted a dark blue maserati being driven
by a man who bore the most uncanny resembalence to multi-times
F1 world champion Michael Schumacher.
As readers can imagine this was not the kind of encounter
that drivers of an Aston Martin, even those who have been
travelling for 48 days, could easily resist checking out most
thoroughly.
And it was he (or so we can surely be certain?), as the face
so familiar to racing fans the world over broke into a grin
as we pulled alongside and he spotted our Make Roads Safe
slogan down the side of the car - a message not lost on our
hero, who is himself a commitee member of the campaign and
one of its leading supporters.
Courteously (for surely that must have been the reason?)
the former world champion then allowed us to pass.
Later, after a smooth and efficient crossing on P&O's
"Pride of Canterbury", we were back on English soil
and away up the final, final leg to London along roads which
were regrettably clogged with cars and traffic even on a Sunday
evening.
It had been an exhilarating, stimulating and enthralling
journey full of colour, interest and no little drama. Thankfully
(some might even say miraculously) we were exactly on the
schedule we had predicted - a total of 49 days to cover the
distance from Tokyo to London which was, in turn, the equivalent
of roughly half a lap around the world.
More importantly perhaps, it is interesting to anticipate
how much less time this same journey might take when the roads
in central Asia are improved and faster border crossings,
as in Europe, are installed in the East. Then, as we have
proved by our historic journey across the new Asian Highway
road system, car travel between the East and West will only
get easier and faster.
- Reporting on parade: Buckingham Palace, London
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My own guess, for what it's worth, is that within five years
the same journey as ours could be achieved in less than a
month - opening up a whole range of wonderful new travel horizons
for millions of people, and huge benefits for trade from the
potential savings in transportation time and costs. It had
certainly been a privilege to pioneer this journey along what
is surely one of the most significant developments in global
transportion in the modern motoring era, and to show the way
forward for those who will follow our path. We also need to
offer our sincerest thanks to all of those very many people
who, in a whole variety of ways, made this historic journey
possible through their gifts of finance and resources, support,
enthusiasm and love. Without you, the event would simply not
have been possible, and we send you the hope that the result
is all you would have wished for.
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Boys are back in town: the home-coming
in London
Journey's end:
Richard and Phil finally handed back the carwhen they
drove their mud-stained but still remarkably perky Aston
Martin into the forecourt of the InterContinental Hotel
in London's Park Lane. There to greet them was Dr Ulrich
Bez, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Aston Martin,
Saul Billingsley, Deputy Director of the FIA Foundation,
plus a host of guests from sponsoring companies and
organisations, supporters, families and friends. TV
and media interviews were followed by a Press Conference
at which Dr Bez announced that the historic car would
be auctioned in December, raising further funds for
the UNICEF (China) programme to reduce the number of
young victims of road accidents. This was followed by
a celebration lunch attended by many of the corporate
sponsors who had made the journey possible.
This travelogue of the
"Driving Home Road Safety 2007" event
is © Richard Meredtih and MercuryBooks and must
not be reproduced without permission |
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